Anti-Fast Fashion Law in France
Shein is expected to become more expensive in France, which started implementing its anti-ultra-fast-fashion law

France has begun imposing new levies on Shein and Temu, which are known for their affordable products, after implementing a law targeting ultra-fast fashion. The legislation was passed in June and promulgated in July.

China considers the law discriminatory. Huang Ling, a spokesperson for the Ministry of Commerce, said China was "firmly opposed to France's insistence on pushing forward this trade-restrictive measure, which is clearly discriminatory." France, meanwhile, says the law is intended only to "protect the environment and consumers."

€20 Per Garment

Under the new law, the levy could rise to nearly €20 (£17.17 / $23.25) per garment by 2030 as France gradually moves to curb fast-fashion products. Consulting firm McKinsey & Company defines fast fashion as follows: "With a focus on ultralow prices and condensed production cycles, fast fashion gets new styles to customers at a record pace—and creates sizable environmental and social challenges."

Under the legislation, France determines whether fashion falls into the ultra-fast category based on the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing a garment relative to its purchase price.

This distinction is why H&M, Mango and Zara do not consider themselves targets of the new law. These European brands do not produce the same volume of items as Shein and Temu.

"China urges France to immediately halt implementation of the anti-ultra-fast-fashion law," Huang said at a press conference. "Should France persist in this course of action, China will take necessary measures to safeguard the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese enterprises."

She added: "France will bear full responsibility for all consequences arising from this." Huang did not specify what retaliatory measures China might take against France.

'Not Discriminatory'

A source at the French Foreign Trade and Attractiveness Office told European media that France did not want a confrontation with China. However, the source said the new law was "not discriminatory."

"It is in everyone's interest, including China's, to have a peaceful relationship with France, with the European Union, and a civil trade relationship," the source said. "The fact that China feels targeted is indeed something we have heard. We are of course ready to talk to them to understand to what extent they feel targeted."

"If China has technical issues with the law, it is perfectly entitled to submit them to the World Trade Organization (WTO)," the source continued. "Our Parliament is sovereign and has had its say. It has passed this law and we will fully respect its decision. This kind of threat, this challenge to a state's sovereign position, is coercion, economic retaliation. But for now, it remains a threat."

Shein Temu - France Levy
Temu earlier said it should not be included in France's new legislation as it is a marketplace rather than an ultra-fast-fashion manufacturer

Levies in 2026

Under the new French law, per-garment charges this year range from €0.50 (£0.43 / $0.58) for underwear to €2 (£1.71 / $2.33) for T-shirts. The levy is €9 (£7.71 / $10.47) per pair of jeans and €12 (£10.28 / $13.95) per jacket.

The levy is capped at 50% of each product's pre-tax price. However, the charge could still reach €19.50 (£16.71/$22.60) per item by 2030.

When reports of the legislation first emerged, Chinese-founded Shein told a British publication that the law would only "worsen the purchasing power of French consumers, at a time when they are feeling the impact of the cost-of-living crisis." Temu said it is an online marketplace and should not be included in discussions about ultra-fast fashion.

Originally published on IBTimes UK